THE 1980S IN FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY: BETWEEN TECHNOLOGY

The 1980s were marked by new trends, movements and technologies, as well as by the introduction of a fresh look that challenged traditional notions of beauty and representation. The great photographers of the time created bold and captivating images that changed the way we perceive fashion.

One of the most significant developments in photography during the 1980s was the use of new technologies. Although digital photography was still in its infancy, there were notable advances in film technology, including the introduction of new types of film and lenses. This allowed photographers to experiment with new techniques and styles, and led to the creation of some of the most iconic images of the time.

The 1980s also saw the advent of a new style of fashion photography known as the "Power Look". This style was characterized by bright colors, strong lines and a sense of power and confidence. Photographers such as Patrick Demarchelier and Bruce Weber helped define this style by creating images that captured the spirit of the times. Bruce Weber is known for his sensual and romantic images, having been credited with bringing more provocative images to the public's attention in the 1980s. "I don't really work for a lot of magazines, because a lot of them don't want my kind of pictures," he said. "It's too risky for them." he declares:

CHRISTY, 1987

PATRICK DEMARCHELIER

MADONNA, NEW YORK, 1987

BRUCE WEBER

In addition to the Power Look, the 1980s saw the introduction of a new, fresher, rawer style of photography. This style was characterized by a raw, unpolished aesthetic that challenged traditional notions of beauty and representation. Photographers like Juergen Teller, Wolfgang Tillmans and Corinne Day helped define this style by creating images that captured the spirit of the times.

The rawer style in photography has been closely associated with the advent of postmodernism, a cultural and intellectual movement that rejected the idea of a single, objective truth and embraced a more fragmented and subjective approach to art and culture. Postmodernism had a significant impact on photography as photographers began to experiment with new techniques and styles that challenged traditional notions of beauty and representation.

One of the most emblematic photographers of the 80s is undoubtedly Cindy Sherman. She is known for her self-portraits where she transforms herself into different characters, often disturbing. Her images revolutionized the way fashion was represented, showing that beauty is not limited to the classic canons. She created images that explored gender and identity:

 UNTITLED (FOR CHICAGO) , 1986

PHOTOGRAPHER: CINDY SHERMAN

Nan Goldin, another photographer documented the lives of her friends and lovers in a raw and honest way. He helped define the postmodern approach to photography. Their images were powerful and emotional, and they captured the spirit of the times in a way that was both authentic and captivating.

Robert Farber, on the other hand, also made his mark on fashion photography in the 1980s. Known for his work with nudes, the female figure is often central to his images, like this black and white photograph showing isolated sections of a woman's body:

BACK, 1982

ROBERT FARBER

Thus, the 1980s was a time of creativity and change in fashion photography. New technologies allowed photographers to experiment with new styles and techniques, leading to the creation of iconic images. The Power Look and Fresh Look movements pushed the boundaries of beauty and representation, while Postmodernism allowed photographers to explore new horizons by challenging traditional conventions.

Kaila Basile